Apron-Free Cooking: Classic Boston Brown Bread Recipe

Syndicated column from the week of June 4, 2012. This article originally published in the Galion Inquirer on June 6, 2012.

I recently attended a cookbook exchange at the Galion Public Library and discovered how much fun these gatherings can be. The rules were refreshingly simple: show up, bring up to three cookbooks to trade, and bring a dish to share. Those three guidelines kept the event relaxed and welcoming, and the result was an afternoon of conversation, recipe swapping, and good food.

I arrived with three cookbooks and a pan of brownies. By the time I left I had a handful of new titles, fresh recipes to try at home, and a few new acquaintances. One of the books I picked up is a New England regional cookbook, which excited me because both my family and my husband’s family have roots in New England. That style of cooking — with its hearty grains, molasses flavors, and simple, comforting dishes — is one I know and love.

After paging through the new cookbook for a few hours, I pulled out my trusted Better Homes baking book and my mixing bowl. I wanted to make one of my husband’s favorites from back home: Boston brown bread. If you’ve never tried Boston brown bread, don’t expect the standard whole-wheat sandwich loaf. This is a dense, slightly sweet, dark bread often steamed rather than baked, with a moist crumb and a robust flavor from molasses and cornmeal. It takes a bit of time to prepare and steam properly, but the result is worth the effort.

Boston Brown Bread

Ingredients:

1 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup yellow cornmeal
1 cup whole wheat flour
3/4 cup dark molasses
2 cups buttermilk or sour milk
1 cup raisins

Directions: Sift the all-purpose flour with the baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Stir in the cornmeal and whole wheat flour until well combined. Add the molasses, buttermilk (or sour milk), and raisins; beat the mixture until smooth. Divide the batter evenly among four greased and floured 1-pound food cans, or use similar small heatproof molds. Cover the cans tightly with foil.

Place the cans on a rack inside a deep kettle or large pot and pour boiling water in until it reaches about 1 inch up the sides of the cans. Cover the kettle and steam the bread for about 3 hours, topping up the water with boiling water if needed to maintain the level. After steaming, uncover the cans and place them in a 450°F (232°C) oven for 5 minutes to dry the tops slightly. Remove the bread from the cans and cool on a rack before slicing.

Serving suggestions: Boston brown bread is traditionally paired with Boston baked beans for a classic New England meal, but it also makes a satisfying breakfast served with butter and a banana. For a simple dessert idea, try warm slices with plain vanilla ice cream—the contrast of warm, molasses-rich bread and cold, creamy ice cream is unexpectedly delightful.

Nutritional estimate (per serving, approximate): Servings per recipe: 20. Calories: 88; Fat: 1 g; Cholesterol: 0 mg; Sodium: 284 mg; Total Carbohydrates: 19 g; Dietary Fiber: 2 g; Protein: 2 g.

My husband enjoys this bread because it’s firm without feeling overly dense, and he says it’s a great portable treat for a day on the sailboat. My father likes it for the memories it brings of growing up in Rhode Island. For me, it’s a comforting recipe that connects family, place, and food in a simple, satisfying way.

If you ever have the chance to attend a cookbook exchange, I recommend it. The atmosphere is friendly and informal, with plenty of opportunities to talk about favorite recipes, share cooking tips, and sample new dishes. Bringing a dish to share opens the door to immediate tasting and conversation, and bringing a few cookbooks lets you trade and take home inspiration from other home cooks.

Noel Lizotte is breaking free of corporate stress with convenience cooking! ApronFreeCooking.com.

Collection of cookbooks

Interested in one of the books pictured above? They are available through the author and common book retailers; check the book title or author name for ordering options.